Alps 2008
  
 

Day 05

June 23

  
 

Dave had asked me before I came over if I'd like to take a day and visit some of the castles in the area. So today is the day we do a little 'flower sniffing' as I call it. I wake up early to charge my MP3 jukebox when I suddenly realize that the UK plug I brought with me does not work in the European sockets. Drats! But I have other adapters and manage to solve the problem. With that figured out, I return to my balcony to enjoy the peace and quiet of the early morning. As I look out, I have to pinch myself so I can make sure that all of this is real and I'm not just dreaming. For years I often wondered if I would ever be able to do this 'ride of rides'. Now I sit here on this balcony surveying the incredible scenery with over a quarter of millions miles in almost 40 years of riding and I'm still amazed that the Lord has brought this whole trip to pass.

 
 
 
 

My attention is drawn in the other direction as solitary church bell tolls out the hour like a forgotten watchman faithful to his duties. The mist slowly rises from the valley floor as the villagers of Lermoos shake the sleep from their eyes and begin to stir.

  
 
 
 
Soon it's time for breakfast and we make our way downstairs to the dining area. It's always a bit different that what I am used to, but really quite good. The selection of cold cuts, cheeses, breads, pastries and jams are excellent. But I do find it funny that I am drinking hot tea, and Dave, who is from the UK doesn't. I can't seem to get the hang of dealing with the soft boiled eggs, trying to separate the egg from the shell. But then I watch Allan as he deftly whacks the top off with a butter knife and proceeds to enjoy the egg right out of the shell using a spoon. Nothing like watching a man who knows what he is doing - even when comes down to eating an egg!
  
 
 
  After breakfast, I make Allan and Dot pose for a 'glamour' shot. They are great folks to spend time with and I really enjoy it since they are obviously as serious about stuff as I am.  
 
 
  Meanwhile Dave is putting in the route for today in his GPS. He has done a lot of route planning before the trip and I really appreciate it. He is thoughtful and thorough and a personal blessing to me to ride with.  
 
 
  Our first stop is at two of the castles near Fussen, Germany that 'mad' King Ludwig II had built during his short reign from 1864 to 1886 when he died a mysterious death. The most famous is called Neuschwanstein which was never completed. It was the inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle.  
 
 
  As his grandfather and father before him, he built imposing monuments such as these with no military or strategic significance purpose. They are grand monuments to a king who was declared insane and deposed by his government when foreign banks threatened to seize his properties.  
 
 
  With it's many turrets and spires, Neuschwanstein is imposing as it resides on top of a mountain.  
 
 
  Sadly for reasons unknown to us, we are not allowed to take any pictures inside the ornately decorated rooms that were finished. But we can take lovely shots from the passageway windows overlooking the village below.  
 
 
 
It is a pretty long walk up the hill to the castle, but the walk down is lot better. About halfway along the drive is a lovely cafe where we stop for lunch. One thing you come to appreciate in Europe are the great outside dining opportunities where you can enjoy the view.
  
 
 
  I decide on a bowl of goulash since I had such a plentiful breakfast. It is hits the spot just right and is excellent.  
 
 
  You can hire a wagon to bring you up and down the long walk (which takes about 45 minutes one way), but Dave and I need the exercise so we hoof it. As we leave the cafe behind, two of the carriages drawn by very sturdy horses do a pass. You do have to watch where you step since the horses just let it fly as the need strikes them.  
 
 
  On an adjacent hill, the castle Hohenschwangau stands, which was built by Ludwig's father and the one that he grew up in. But today Dave and I have enjoyed all the walking and steps we want, so we leave its exploration for another day.  
 
 
  With advent of the European Union, I am amazed at how easy it is to pass from country to country. As we ride back into Austria from Germany it is no more trouble that crossing a state line in the US. No border guards, no passport checks - nothing at all but a sign.  
 
 
  And while I'm getting sign pictures, I figure I'll get the opposing German sign also.  
 
 
  As we make out way toward the main residence of Ludwig II, we pass a beautiful lake in a superb alpine setting. The road just meanders along aside it for several miles.  
 
 
  The Castle Linderhof is not nearly as large as Neuschwanstein but what it lacks in size it makes up in ornate decorations. There are actually homes in Belle Meade in Nashville where I'm from that are larger than this one, but none are a match for the gold that covers most of the interior. This particular home pays great homage to the France monarchy and is styled after the palace of the French Sun-King Louis XIV. Once again we cannot take pictures of the inside which is a disappointment,  
 
 
  This is where King Ludwig II spent most of his short reign and he delighted in fancy gardens, fountains and such.  
 
 
  The details of his formal gardens that surround the palace are astonishing and something to behold.  
 
 
  And in front of the palace in the large pool, a timed fountain shoots a stream of water toward the sky. The king may have been called 'mad', but he was the instigator of much modern progress in Bavaria such as the use of electricity - in the 1800s.  
 
 
  Ludwig was also a big fan of the playwright Richard Wagner. Up behind this palace, he had a grotto built inside a regular building that looks just like a cave (modern day amusement parks had nothing on this feller!). It has a lake, boat, and waterfall all set for the performing of operas. To my knowledge, he 'drown' mysteriously (some say he was shot then thrown in a lake) before he ever got to see a play in this unusual theater.  
 
 
  On the way back to Lermoos, Dave take me to lovely town by the name of Oberammergau in Germany. It is perhaps better known as the site of the Passion Play which villagers pledged that they would perform every ten years depicting the life and death of Jesus if God would spare their village from the bubonic plague. He did and they have pretty much continuously since 1634.  
 
 
  Most of the buildings are very artistically painted with various figures and scenes. What is amazing is that the window 'trim', although painted, looks so real that it almost fools your eyes.  
 
 
  Dave and I find a nice sidewalk cafe that just happens to serve up ice cream and shakes. I go for one of my many weaknesses - a chocolate milk shake - and I am not disappointed. Dave goes for something more healthy - a ice cream concoction that includes some fruit. There's nothing left but dirty dishes as we head back to the bikes.  
 
 
  It still amazes me how over here is so bike friendly. You can just park on the sidewalks and nobody bothers them at all.  
 
 
  Before long we are back in Austria and headed for Lermoos. It has been quite an interesting day and good break from being on the road.  
 
 
  Once we are back at the hotel, we hook up with Allan and Dot to go to supper. I grab my rain jacket before we leave, just in case those clouds are the real deal. Dot grabs her umbrella but Dave and Allan just decide to tough it out.  
 
 
  We head for the Grubig Stein which is all right by me. This time I try jager schnitzel which has the meat in a lovely sauce. It is once again quite good and a bit different that anything I've had before. Allan and Dot like the spaghetti so well that the lady waiting on us knows already what they want. After dinner we stroll back toward the hotel and stop by a 'fancier' place to sit and talk a bit. It is easy to tell that this is a real high class place, but we are welcomed in our casual clothes very cordially and the service is superb. And the view from the deck is as good as the service.  
 
 
  But the storm is moving in pretty quickly, so we move inside to the lounge area so we will not get drowned in the coming deluge.  
 
 
  And after most storms in the weather and in life, there is a rainbow. And this one was no exception.  
 
 
  It's getting late and Dave and I are headed out to Kaprun tomorrow. Allan has recommended a few good local roads to get us out of the area that Dave had not explored yet. So we make our way back to the hotel quietly.  
 
 
  Once again, with an open window, I listen for more storms but my hearing goes quiet as my eyes go shut.  
 

Totals For The Day -

Countries - 2 (Austria, Germany)

Miles - 87

Passes - 0

Hairpins - 0