Alps 2008
  
 

Day 07

June 25

  
 

The place we are staying in Kaprun, the Pension AlpenRose, is absolutely top notch and quite nicely appointed.

  
 
 
  The rooms are very nice with balconies and views to match.  
 
 
  And out back there is a lovely garden area for quite contemplation for those who would like to make use of it.  
 
 
  I am up early in anticipation of just another day in paradise, well ahead of when breakfast will be served. I stroll out back into the garden, and can see the snow covered Alps standing watch with village church steeple.  
 
 
  Our parking area is secured by a gate with a passcode and we have a really nice covered garage to park the bikes in. Once again Dave has done above well in choosing a place for us to stay.  
 
 
  As I am out prepping Snow White for the day's ride, I see the neighbor's cat surveying her kingdom from her balcony rail. She is the mistress of the garden area and often visits her fiefdom as the fancy strikes her.  
 
 
  This a first class facility and the dear lady, Mrs. Pregenzer, that runs it cannot seem to do enough for you. For breakfast she always fixes something special, whether it is fresh watermelon or hand made pastries in addition to the already sumptuous breakfast spread with eggs cooked to order. This morning it is some handmade pastries that would make your tongue beat your brains out they are so good. After such a great breakfast, Dave and are off to do some more passes. I believe I would make a really good rich kid, as I could learn to enjoy this lifestyle very well!  
 
 
  We pass by the Mauterndorf Castle which is the 'real deal' when it comes to German castles. Unlike King Lundwig's fantasy places, this one was started in around 1253 AD to guard the turnpike.  
 
 
  Some of the roads we are on can get a little narrow, but that's just part of it. If you meet an oncoming vehicle, it manages to get sorted out somehow without any bending of metal, cursing or shedding of blood.  
 
 
  The Nochalm Strasse is one of the few pass areas that we have to pay to go over, but Dave takes care of it for us. This road runs through the lovely Nockberge National Park so it actually more of a park admission fee. This park has the distinction of being Europe's only National Park in a gentle high mountain range with the largest forests of spruce, larch and stone pine in the eastern Alps  
 
 
  This sign proves to be a real challenge as the grade is pretty steep.  
 
 
  But the view from the top is well worth the price of admission. This reminds so much of many places back home that I have been to. It's not the rugged part of the Alps, but a much more gentle, rolling section with it's own natural beauty.  
 
 
 

We have many miles to go today, so we do not tarry long. I am constantly amazed at how much more 'biker' friendly Europe is when compared to most of the US. It is not unusual as you run the passes to have cars pull over and wave you on ahead - not in disgust but just pleased to let you go ride and enjoy your day. Before we come to the Solk Pass, we decide to check out a little cafe out in the true middle of nowhere, called something that I surely cannot pronounce.

  
 
 
 

The food is quite different but very good. There are several cheeses, veggies, breads and some 'unusual' cold cuts. They include a ripe tomato and I can't but help wonder where in the world they came up with it. One piece looks and tastes much like very thick bacon that we have back home. It's a bit chewy and Dave says

"I prefer not to encounter that again."

"Yep, I could kind of skip that too" I tell him.

But the sausage and other meats are very tasty and sure fill up the empty spot. The owner's little boy plays quietly nearby, enjoying the sunshine and the stuff that he can get into.

  
 
 
  Once we have finished our 'chewing', we head on up toward the Solk Pass where we meet some more 'folks' that are chewing. The one in the road is not at all happy at our appearance and demands that we make a hasty exit.  
 
 
  The Solk Pass still has a little snow at the top, but it is pretty and green for the most part. I find that each pass has it's own type of scenery and challenges, just like people.  
 
 
  As we descend the pass, evidently our previous bovine magistrate wanted to be sure we left the area, so she radioed ahead to another greeting party that was much larger in size, and a bit more bellicose. Since they do not appear to be armed, we 'horn' our way through the midst of them and make a hasty retreat on down the mountain.  
 
 
 

We chase some 'unscheduled' roads in search of a particular interesting pass Dave has hear of, but there is a bridge out before we can get there. But the roads are excellent, so I have no complaints at all. As we approach the Koppen Pass, I look out and for a minute, I think that I am on the BRP looking out over North Carolina or Virginia. It never ceases to amaze me the similarity of the terrain all over some parts of the world.

  
 
 
  With the Koppen Pass under our belt, we head back toward Kaprun. My ST1300 is riding like a heater and I am getting really roasted, especially when we descend into the valleys. Maybe it's color 'stove' white is appropriate after all ...  
 
 
  When we stop in Altenmarkt for fuel, it is much welcome relief for me. I guess I am getting numb to the price of fuel over here, as I don't even think about it on this fill-up.  
 
 
  But I am able to find something at this market that makes me laugh a little bit. They have 'peach' flavored ice tea, a lot like what my friend Don in California introduced me to on ride out there. The label is different but the taste is very similar and very welcomed! I hoist one to Don and Miss Joyce and the good times we have had together over the years.  
 
 
  I look over and there is a large truck sitting at the pumps waiting patiently for me to move my bike so he can get fuel. I get the bike out of there in a hurry so he can fill up. If this had been in the States, I'm sure here would have been some horn honking and some nasty words yelled out the window by now. But this driver is just as nice and kind as any I have seen. As I go back to enjoying my nice, cold ice tea I can't help but admire the beautiful view that stretches out before me. Regardless of how many times I see such a scene, I just never get over it - and hope that I never do.  
 
 
  As we finish off the day heading back to Kaprun, once again I see a solitary church steeple pointing to God and the sky. It seems that every village and town we come to has a very well-maintained church in the center.  
 
 
  As we near our home base, a train makes its way to destinations unknown. I am a bit amazed that there are no drop down gates like back in the States, but then over here people tend to pay attention to things such as signs and lights.  
 
 
 
Back at the AlpenRose, we clean up a bit from the heat and rest out weary bones before we strike out to our favorite restaurant. The walk feels good, but it sure looks like a storm is brewing and heading our way. We take our usual table on the patio outside and place our orders, as we keep a watchful eye on the gathering clouds.
  
 
 
  The food comes quickly and once again is very good. But as we finish up, the wind picks up really quickly and starts blowing things around a bit. Dave and I gather up our place settings and stuff and move back inside the restaurant. The workers hurry about trying to drop down the sun umbrellas and gather up the table clothes. As I sit down, I notice one of their tablecloths has blown against the railing, so I go and fetch it for them. They are very appreciative and thank me as best they can in the English that they know. Since the rain has moved in on us, Dave and I decide that we will suffer through some dessert so we can wait and see if it eases up. It is a tough sacrifice to make, but we manage to work our way through it. Our plan works in more ways than one, and soon it does ease up a bit. We finish the task at hand, settle up with our server, then make our way through the light rain back to our rooms. With the my window open and the rain gently falling, it does not take me long to get to a semi-comatose state.  
 

Totals For The Day -

Countries - 1 (Austria)

Miles - 297

Passes - 3 (Nochalm Strasse, Solk, Koppen)

Hairpins - 62