West 2009
  
 

Day 10

September 5

  
 
 
  I normally like to take a day out of the saddle on a trip like this but our schedule just will not allow it. So I've made the next two days a lot shorter so we can spend some time with V.J. and Miss Mo this evening and Don and Joyce tomorrow. I'm excited about this section of highway 1 since last time I rode it in complete darkness past Petaluma. At least today I should be able to see what it looks like. We're up and at it early, bikes are packed and we're off toward San Francisco.  
 
 
  Since it is a short day, it will be a lot of photo ops as we move on down the road.  
 
 
  Having slept by the ocean before, I can imagine how sweet it is for these folks who have a front row seat on this narrow sliver of sand.  
 
 
  The biggest challenge on riding highway 1 is trying to stay focused on the road and it's many twists and turns and still take in the views.  
 
 
  Again and again the scenery beckons for a better and closer look.  
 
 
  It's a constant ascent and descent as the highway plays tag with the terrain and the ocean.  
 
 
  And sometimes it seems that you are going to just run right out on the beach and into the water.  
 
 
  Then at other times there is no beach to run out on - just the lonely rocks standing perpetual guard for the coastline behind them.  
 
 
  The air is quite cool this morning and I am really glad that I got my heated gear sorted. Especially since it looks like Dave's cloud has searched us out and again and is in 'cold' pursuit.  
 
 
  But it doesn't stop the intrepid travelers from stopping for photo ops as it suits our fancy.  
 
 
  This stand of trees bears silent testimony to the power of the ocean wind, having been sculpted into phantom like shapes over the years.  
 
 
  There's a nice farm overlooking the ocean to our right and I wonder if it is still in the original family's control. I can't imagine what it would cost at today's prices for ocean view property.  
 
 
  Though the road is often deserted at this early morning hour, we still manage to come upon four local constabulary, trolling for their daily additions to the local village tills.  
 
 
  Although much of highway 1 is sweepers with magnificent views, every now and then a hard angle turn is tossed in for good measure. And they will catch you off guard very quickly if you are not paying a lot of attention.  
 
 
  Fort Ross (the name derived from a word that means Russian) stands overlooking the sea, a monument to the former presence of Russians here that goes back to 1812. It was base for Russian exploration of the Northwest and on into Alaska. Most of the buildings are faithful reconstructions with the exception of the Rotchev House, the old commander's house.  
 
 
  It's just an enjoyable day, with very little traffic, great roads and great views.  
 
 
  In some places there are no guard rails and it's a long way down to the ocean. More than one driver has taken the fateful 'plunge' on this highway.  
 
 
  This particular vantage point gives view of just how the highway clings to the cliff sides. We will be traversing the road in view in a matter of minutes.  
 
 
  The sea oats appear to be delicate and yet they stand unbowed by the wind and the sea. Indeed in their case, appearances can be deceiving.  
 
 
  Just when you think you have all the pictures of the ocean you can ever take, along comes another one unique in its own beauty.  
 
 
  Each little village we pass through I keep an eye open for a breakfast place that is open. As we make our way through Gleason Beach I still do not find anything except another beautiful view.  
 
 
  But finally as we come into Bodega Bay, I see restaurant that looks like it is open for business. I quickly flip on my signal and we find places to park.  
 
 
  As it turns out, the famous Alfred Hitchcock film 'The Birds' was filmed here in the area. This is a long way from England which was the fictional location of the film.  
 
 
 

But there is nothing fictional about the great grub they are serving here. I go for something a little unusual - a shrimp and cheese omelet. I tell Dave and Andy -

"My wife would be proud of me. She just loves shrimp."

And I am not disappointed at all!

  
 
 
  Out the window from where we are seated, stands an old bird. Maybe he is waiting for a remake of the film.  
 
 
  In this shot Dave manages to capture a sea creature breaking the surface on front of us - not to mention the two other prominent creatures in this shot that are not in the water.  
 
 
  With the meal annihilated, we settle up and head back for the bikes. This dear little girl is fascinated with my bright red bike and my flag. I would like to think it was me she was looking at but I know better.  
 
 
  Dave's cloud seems to be giving us some distance as we continue our journey on to San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge.  
 
 
  But as I move along, I have to wonder how well this big tanker is going to negotiate some of the tight bends up ahead of us. I grab a lower gear and get around him as quickly as I can, so as not to be a part of what might happen if he swings too wide in one of the turns.  
 
 
  As we get into the lower elevations, often little fishing huts rest lazily at the water's edge. Judging by the looks of the boats anchored nearby, you can tell these are the real deal and not some vacationer's idle stopover.  
 
 
  But then we see what looks like a very serious accident up ahead that has blocked the highway. Soon a lady in bicyclist's attire comes back up the road to let us know that a fellow rider had decided to get in a match with the guard rail. We'll have to stay put until the medical folks can get it all sorted out. It reminds of what Dave and I ran into in the Alps where a bicyclist had lost her brakes and ran off the hillside. That one included a helicopter deftly landed across the highway in very close quarters.  
 
 
  Soon the pieces are picked up, the crashed rider is in good hands, and we are off again. We pass through countless little villages like this one, each picturesque in their own unique way.  
 
 
  Soon we come to the 'infamous (for me)' Petaluma turnoff where I lost Rich and V.J. the last time I was here. At least I'll get to see what this road looks like in the light. But Dave's famous cloud threatens to enclose us in fog as it bears down upon us.  
 
 
 

I remember that there is a service station right where highway 1 runs into highway 101 which will take us across the Golden Gate Bridge. Because the traffic will be crazy for a while I radio back to Dave -

"We need to fill up here before we get into the traffic."

It's a small busy station, and we all get to do the "Standard Dave Refueling Procedure" then I move on over to an adjoining parking lot so we can talk about what I plan to do.

"We'll be getting in some pretty heavy traffic so we need to stick close together. Just before we cross the bridge we'll be getting off on the Sausalito Lateral Road which will take us up to a overlook of the bridge."

With that bit of information shared, we strike out for the next adventure.

  
 
 
  Pretty quickly we're in the thick of things and headed for the bridge.  
 
 
  And pretty quickly we are in the midst of a nasty traffic jam. Fortunately in California you can lane split, or filter as the Brits say, and it is a really good thing. We make our way through the mess and find our turn off, glad to be out of the fray for at least a few moments.  
 
 
  I find the lookout pretty easily that looks like it should give us a great view.  
 
 
 

Unfortunately, Dave's cloud has caught back up with us and there is no bridge to be seen. I tell Andy and Dave -

"Well fellers, we could wait here 30 minutes and it could clear up. Then again we could wait here 3 hours and never clear up. But somewhere out there is the bridge. I guess you'll just have to take my word on that."

We decide we'll wait a few more minutes but our wait is in vain. Today we will not see the bridge at all from this viewpoint.

  
 
 
  This is the view I was hoping we would get (thanks to my riding friend Rich for providing what we missed).  
 
 
  As we make our way back down from the hill, the bay area to the left of bridge is clear and sunny.  
 
 
  But the bridge and the fog are playing a little game of peek a boo today.  
 
 
  It's almost spooky as we make our way across the long spans how the up right towers seem to vaporize in the fog.  
 
 
  I do manage to get at least one of the towers in a shot before we hurl ourselves into the heavy San Francisco traffic.  
 
 
  Highway 1 departs from highway 101 shortly after crossing the bridge and goes right through part of town. The traffic is thick but that's just part of the ride.  
 
 
  Soon we leave most of the traffic behind and it's back to enjoying the ocean views and the sweeping bends.  
 
 
  Every time I pass this strange house contraption I wonder exactly what the story behind it is. It looks like a strange amalgam of building materials and cliff rock.  
 
 
  Off of highway 1 just past Half Moon Bay there's an interesting little 1 1/2 lane pig path called Tunitas Creek Road that will take us up to Skyline Drive where V.J. and Miss Mo live. Today it is overpopulated with bicyclists who seem a bit surprised to see three motorcyclists invading their kingdom. But it's a great twisty road and we make the best of it.  
 
 
 

Going from memory I keep a lookout for V.J.'s drive - and whiz right by it. I radio Dave -

"I think we just passed it. Let's turn around and check it out".

Fortunately my memory serves me correctly and we soon parked in front of the house.

  
 
 
 

Remembering the trick that V.J. pulled on me in Redding, I dial up his number from his front yard. When he answers, I innocently say -

"Hey V.J., this is Uncle Phil. I have clairvoyant powers and I see some nasty bums parked right out in front of your house. You'd better check it out."

I hear a deep intake of breath and then silence. Soon he comes out and greets us, amazed that I remembered the drive. We were supposed to stop at Alice's and call him so he could lead us in.

I remind him of what he did to me in Redding and we both just laugh. He and Miss Mo have graciously invited us to spend the evening at their place. It's a beautiful place and it will be nice not to be in a motel room for a change.

  
 
 
  And Miss Shirley is still patrolling the grounds and complaining because she is not allowed to come in the house - though she has her own house that would be the envy of most of her fellow felines.  
 
 
  It's great just to be able to kick our shoes off and catch up on what's gone since I last saw V.J. and Miss Mo in 2007. Miss Mo is expecting their first child and she has that glow that all prospective mothers share. This is one of my homes away from home and really appreciate their willingness to share it with me .. and especially those other two hoodlums who have been following me around for the last week or so.  
 
 
 

Since we've got some time, V.J. and I work on a shorted route to Don's house for tomorrow. Nothing seems to be much quicker than what I had originally planned, which will get us there later than I want to be. After much Google mapping and staring at the ancient papyrus with the squiggly lines, I decide I'll call Don. If anybody would know a shorter way he would. Sure enough, he knows a shortcut, not on the map, that goes through a military base. He tells me

"You'll have to have your registration and insurance papers because they will check them at the gate. But it's some really good technical stuff to ride."

"As always Don, thanks a bunch. And I reckon I'll see you tomorrow."

Just as a back up, I formulate a plan that will take us down to the Bixby Bridge then backup through Carmel, Salinas, and then a lovely road called 198 through Coalinga. I figure if push comes to shove, we should be able to make some really good time this way.

  
 
 
 

Not only have V.J. and Miss Mo put us up for the evening, they have prepared a traditional Indian meal that would make your tongue beat your brains out. Rich and Miss Arlene have come over also and it's great to catch up with them also. I do ask Rich -

"Have you ever used that GPS yet?" referring to our missed connection the last time I was out.

We both just laugh and I give him and Miss Arelene a big hug. It's a great time of food and fellowship and it comes to end far too soon.

 
 
 
 
We decide that breakfast at Alice's will just take too long since they don't open until late, so we will meet Rich and Martin, another ST rider, there in the morning and they'll run down the coast a little ways with us. Once again, it's been a great day and my heart and my stomach are full. I retire to the land of sweet dreams, thankful such good friends who not only share their home but their hearts.